Gotcha Hotcha Sweet-Smoky Cocktail Peanuts

(adapted from “Bean by Bean: A Cookbook” by Crescent Dragonwagon, Workman Publishing). Makes about 2.5 cups.

Vegetable oil cooking spray (optional)
1 cup white or turbinado sugar
2 teaspoons red chile powder (not chili powder; you want just the dried, red ground chiles)
1 to 2 teaspoons cayenne
2 tablespoons smoked sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tablespoons seasame seeds
1 pound dry-roasted, unsalted peanuts
Fine sea salt to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
2. Spray a large, heavy, nonreactive sauté pan with oil. (If you have a heavy nonstick pan, omit the oil.)
3. Add 1 cup water and the sugar to the pan and bring it to a boil. Continue to boil, giving it a whisk or two, until the sugar has dissolved, making a clear, hot syrup, about 1 minute. Stir in all the remaining ingredients except the salt.
4. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring constantly, until the syrup is much thickened (there should be very little liquid left), 8 to 10 minutes. Toward the end, pay close attention; you want to prevent the peanut mixture from sticking or burning (you may need to turn the heat down slightly).
5. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper or spray it generously with cooking spray.
6. Transfer the peanut mixture onto the baking sheet, spreading it out evenly. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes or so, until the peanuts have deepened in color and there’s no sign of liquid, 15 to 20 minutes. (If you blow on a peanut and the syrup turns into a crisp, caramelized coat, you’re there). Remove the pan; let the nuts cool slightly, then break up any clumps and salt the nuts. Let cool completely; pack in airtight container and keep for a week to 10 days.